Kosrae is Micronesia's most remote destination, and can
be described as an unblemished garden of flowers, palms
and citrus trees where the clear, clean seas that surround
it are home to healthy and diverse coral reefs. (So far
the official tourist brochure - which is close to the truth)
Kosrae has three main geographical features - mountains,
jungle and mangrove forests, ringed by miles of white sandy
beaches.
The mountains are dense and rugged, and are covered by
dense tropical vegetation. Several peaks rise to over 2,000
feet above sea level and the mountains account for over
70% of the land mass.
Kosrae has spectacular fringing reefs that completely
encircle the island. The abundance of marine life and pristine
hard corals is impressive.
However, there is something you should be aware of. Missionaries
have a huge influence here and unfortunately there are a lot
of restrictions for visitors. For example, there are no activities
at all allowed on Sundays. You cannot even go snorkeling.
Modesty to exposed skin is also a problematic issue and on
the dive boat you will be told when it is appropriate to change
into your wetsuit, just to not offend any locals.
Visitor numbers are hence very low on Kosrae. If you prefer
not to be restricted in your activities and movements,
it is better to chose any other destination in Micronesia,
which are more uncomplicated. If you don't mind a day off
in your vacation and are looking for solitude, this might
just be your place.
How To Get There
The island of Kosrae is located on the easternmost fringe
of the Federated States of Micronesia about 300 miles North
of the Equator and approximately 3000 miles southwest of
Hawaii. The island covers an area of 42 square miles.
Kosrae is a stop off point on Continental Micronesia's
"Island Hopper" service between Honolulu &
Guam and 3 flights per week operate from/to either of these
points. On some days, onward connections are operating from/to
Cairns, Tokyo & Manila.
Climate
Kosrae has a warm, tropical climate. The dry season (the
best time to travel) is between December and April; the
rainy season, April to December, with the greatest falls
between July and October.
Temperatures average between 78-90 degrees Fahrenheit (26-32
degrees Celsius), with the water temperature sitting on
a comfortable year-round 82-84 Fahrenheit (28-29 degrees
Celsius).
Culture And History
The ancient Kosraeans were a seafaring people of presumed
Malayo descent and it appears that their culture was steeped
in royalty. On the small, hilly island of Lelu, a city of
basalt and coral was built to accommodate Kosrae's kings,
royal family and nobility. One of the World's more enigmatic
and fascinating monuments, the Lelu Ruins now reflect the
era of the past monarchies.
By the 19th Century, Lelu had fallen into historical obscurity
and with the missionaries, new waves of Europeans &
Americans filtered into Kosrae. Amongst these settlers were
whalers, beachcombers & traders and over the years the
majority of Kosraeans were converted to Christianity. Today,
these devout and peaceful people continue their daily lives
as fishermen, weavers and canoe builders in much the same
manner as their ancestors have for hundreds of years. Fundamental
Christianity plays a major role in their lives today.
Diving
More than 50 dive sites have been identified by local diving
pioneers, and it is often said that the island is one large
20km (32 mile) dive site.
Each site has been marked with a buoy to prevent improper
anchoring, leaving Kosrae's reefs pristine and ripe for
exploration. Beautiful hard coral gardens punctuate the
eastern side of the island, whilst to the west, the gardens
give way to plunging walls.
Sharks, dogtooth tunas, schools of barracudas and other
exciting ocean creatures can all be encountered along the
reef's edge. A rainbow of colours can be found in the forests
of tiny Christmas tree invertebrates that populate the large
corals. Underwater visibility averages 30 metres (100 feet).
This coral reef is unique in that novice divers can enjoy
an easy diving experience, while their more experienced
dive buddy will marvel at the marine life. Below are a selection
of Kosrae's best dive sites:
- Hiroshi Point: Located at buoy 15, this site
offers divers glimpses of large coral heads - estimated
to be more than 2,000 years old - and large numbers of
Christmas tree worms and invertebrates. A diverse variety
of marine life, including eagle rays, schools of huge
parrotfish, reef sharks, barracudas and squids can be
seen. It is a popular shore entry with a high tide and
low surf. Great for snorkelling, too. Current is variable
and generally runs north around the point.
- Lelu Current: Located at Buoy 54, and formerly
known as D'Urville Point, this site is on a wide reef
shelf and has many low-growing coral. It is often subject
to rough water and can have strong currents; boat entry
only. Divers have reported sailfish in the area. The point
is a popular fishing spot.
- Walung Coral Shelf: Located at Buoy 32, the Walung
Coral Shelf is a spectacular dive that includes a great
variety of fish and healthy coral. The current is rough,
sometimes to difficult to dive, so planning a dive is
critical. The water is a little colder than usual, which
is possibly the reason why the fish are so numerous and
large.
- Walung Drop-Off: Located at Buoys 29 and 30,
the drop-off is one of the most popular dive spots in
Kosrae. Incredible sheer walls are home to schools of
barracudas. All types of marine life have been seen here
- small hammerheads and reef sharks, turtles, giant puffers,
numerous small invertebrates. The current can be strong.
Buoy 29 is located in shallow water and is a great snorkel
spot; buoy 30 is on the outer reef.
- Malem Reef Shelf: Located at Buoys 8 - 10 on
the windward side of the island, the site contains a wide
reef shelf and is profusely covered with low-growing coral.
A variety of fish can be seen here. Juvenile whale sharks
have been spotted in the past.
- Blue Hole: Located across from Kosrae Nautilus
Resort, this site is accessible even in stormy weather.
Within the reef (maximum depth is 60 feet), you can see
resident stingrays, large numbers of juvenile fish, huge
puffers, and whatever else comes over the reef at high
tide. Visibility varies. Walk or swim over the reef flat
for entry.
- Yela Harbor and Wall: Located at Buoy 36, this
deep wall site is home to many corals and scribbled filefish
that are so curious and friendly that they'll follow divers
around.
- Shark Island: Located at Buoys 39 and 40, this
is considered an excellent dive site with many species
of fish and invertebrates, but be careful of the fast
current. If there is no current, Shark Island is a great
night dive, but only one of many.
- The Leonora: Bully Hayes, infamous and notorious
19th century American pirate and trader, would often use
Kosrae as a roadstead. In 1874, a typhoon whipped the
ocean waters and sunk the schooner, named in honor of
one his twin daughters. Discovered I 10 years later, the
Leonora rests in 30 feet of water at Utwe Harbor, though
the only remnants are a few metal objects.
Other Activities
There are mysterious ancient ruins of the forefathers of
the Kosraean people. World War II artifacts, cave systems
and remnants abound and there's even a pirate ship sunk
beneath the waves. A hike up to Kosrae's famous Mount Omar
will take the visitors past a series of gushing waterfalls
pouring through the lush Kosrae jungle.
The mangroves of Kosrae are spectacular. In some places
they form a high jungle canopy where rivers flow below and
channels rise and fall with the tides. Here is also a marine
preserve on Kosrae where juvenile creatures are allowed
to grow and flourished unmolested by humans.
Not all of Kosrae is paved and villages like Walung can
be reached only by boat. Here people go about their daily
lives without cars or electricity.
Hotels
Independent
